Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, located almost to the south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. Actually, Ama Dablam means “The mother mountain” so it’s also regarded as mother mountain and female. It stands among many 22,000 to 24,000-foot peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. And from the summit of Amadablam Mountain, all round mountains of Khumbu region and both way valley’s can be viewed, which is a very interesting and exciting moment.

On the summit, there is space for about one tent so there will be no problems to stay on the summit for around 1 hour to enjoy the views and sunshine from the summit of Ama Dablam. Actually, 15 to 25 days climbing period would be a very good time for this mountain because we will have to wait for the weather conditions also sometimes for the climbing and enjoy the view from the summit.

Ama Dablam Southwest Route Camps:

Base Camp (4600m/15092ft):

Ama Dablam base camp is one of the biggest grass base camps located in Nepal. It is rare to see such hospitable terrain at height of 4600m. Climbers will play volleyball and soccer at base camp to keep warm and enjoy the beautiful site. Base camp will be set up here for almost 45 days in both spring and autumn seasons. In the camp, you will have great views Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde. Ama Dablam’s base camp is generally sunny due to its location, the sun is out early and stays late into the day. There are approximately 7-10 climbing teams each spring and autumn season. To provides these high facilities for climbers at the appropriate times we arrange climbing permits with your time frame in mind. Our guides and staff are always ready to establish different departure dates as requested by climbers.

Camp One (5700m/18,800ft) 5hrs:

The climb from Ama Dablam base camp to camp one is easy a trekking trail with only a short section of casual rock scrambling that is 100m in length. It nearby camp one at a slope of 60º. Along the way, you will scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, with no fixed rope in place. You will quickly come to learn that on Ama Dablam Southwest ridge there are not many places to put a tent. So there is some logistics and sharing that is required among climbers. Roughly there is only space for 6-7, two-man tents and 6-7 single tents.

Camp Two (5950m/19,521ft) 3hrs:

The climb from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on the route. You begin the day by scrambling and climbing along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge around several pinnacles and gendarmes, gaining only 300 meters/1000 vertical feet. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge, you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters which are considered French 4th class, British Severe, North American YDS 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower, you will arrive at Camp 2 on small ledges. This will feel like a real big mountain high camp, high exposure on all sides. Be careful when you go to the toilet.

Camp Three (6200/20,341ft)-2hrs:

The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 shifts over to mixed, ice and snow terrain. This section also has fixed ropes along the entire distance. You will have great views of Ama Dablam base camp, Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is now time to traverse the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters/20,300 feet. Looking up at camp 3 (6300 meters/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Some strong climbers push for the summit from camp two. However, Zambuling Expedition will always fix camp three before the summit. With that being said it is important to advise that this section of the mountain is at high risk for avalanches. So reducing the time spent at this camp or bypassing it completely is imperative. For clients not feeling strong enough to push from camp 2 we usually spend 6 hours here before starting for the summit push. The route from the yellow tower to camp three is almost 55º of slop most of the way.

 Summit (6812M/22349ft) 10 hrs:

To summit from camp three and return back down to camp two takes most climbers about 10 hours. Summit day on Ama Dablam is a special one. Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid snow-ice (40º+) are climbed to the side of the Dablam. Once you are next to the Dablam you reach a fluted snow/ice field (30-50º) that leads you to one of the world’s finest summits. Here you will be rewarded will the best seat in the house to view the Khumbu, the epicenter of high altitude climbing. Stunning panoramic views of the Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma and Makalu come into view.

Facts of the Trip
  • Highest access: 6,812m (22,334ft)
  • First Ascent:13 March 1961 by Mike Gill & Wally Romanes(NZ), Barry Bishop(USA) & Mike Ward(UK)
  • Duration: 30 days (typically) Days
  • Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group.
  • Co-ordinates:27°51’42” N, 86°51’40” E
  • Location: Nepal/Everest Region
  • Country: Nepal
  • Airport: Kathmandu
  • Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
  • Grade: mixed Alpine AD
  • Accommodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L,D in during trekking and climbing
  • Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L,D in during trekking and climbing
  • Transportation: Car, Jeep, Flight
  • Best season: spring: April-May and autumn: September-October
  • Major Activity: trekking/climbing
  • Include Activity: Scenic flight to Lukla
  • Culture: Sherpa and Tamang
  • Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
  • Climbing route: Southwest and northeast
  • Himalayan sights: Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Kongde