Among the 14, 8,000m peaks in the world Mt. Shishapangma is the lowest 8000m coming in at (8013m/26335ft). The peak becomes famous when Joseph Hsu Ching (China) submitted successfully on 2 May, 1964.Mt. Shishapangma is considered by many to be one of the easiest 8000m mountains to climb, it is a great prerequisite to Mount Everest. Shishapangma creates a great base for 8000m expeditions; we highly recommend this as your first 8000m ascent. This peak is the highest peak in the Langtang Himal. The Tibetan name is Xixapangma and the Nepalese refer to the peak as Gosaitan meaning “The Holy Place” literally translated it means”The Mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.
The normal route on Shishapangma is non-technical with big skiable snowfields, spectacular ridge to the summit and little objective danger. Zambuling Expedition offers clients a safe and interesting climbing experience with Sherpa guides who have trained to western standards, were born in the mountains of Nepal and have had multiple successes on Everest and other 8000m peaks. Zambuling Expedition operates the Mt. Shishapangma Expedition in spring and autumn. Our services also include both full board and base camp logistic services for Shishapangma.
Shishapangma is usually climbed via the Northwest face and the North ridge, these are the standard commercial routes aka the normal climbing routes. The north ridge route is considered the easiest route to the summit of Shishapgnama. The base camp and advanced base camp is located in the biggest area of Tibetan plateau. From this plateau, you will have amazing views of the Himalaya. Satori Adventure will set up advance base camp for almost 22 days. Most high altitude climbers spend 80% of their time at base camp, quickly making it a home away from home on a long expedition. Zambuling provides a personal tent to each client which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent becomes the common area and the shower and toilet tent is available at your convenience. Before climbing you are encouraged to participate in a Puja ceremony for good luck.
Camp 1 (6400m) is located on a flat snowfield with plenty of space for tents. This becomes a deposit camp that allows suppliers to be ferried up to the higher camps. From ABC it takes almost 3 hours to reach the crampons point, once on the glacier, it is another 2-3 hours to reach camp one. Camp one is a great location to see the view of sunrise and sunset. After camp one we fix about 20-30m and 20M of rope on a 55º slope.
Camp 2 is always fixed at about 7100-7150m. Right out of camp one the climbing is flat for almost 30 minutes, after that you encounter fixed lines at 45-50º. Generally, climbing from camp one to camp two is safe but there are some big crevasses that can be difficult to see because they are covered in snow. So we advise our climbers and climbing Sherpa guide to climbing on fixed ropes 100% of the time o this section of the route. From camp two you will be able to view Langtang-re if the weather is clear.
Climbing from camp two to camp 3 is strenuous. For one and a half hours you will ascend 150m of fixed line on a 25º snow slope. From here you continue up for another two and a half hour to stair ridge, this is now just below the central summit ridge. From this point continue for a half hour to a col, this is camp three. This space is accommodating for 10-12 two-man tents. Here you will rest from 16:00-11:00 before starting your summit push.
Summit day is a steep ascent on snow and rock ridge to a snow pinnacle that is the false central summit. Most climbers finish here and do not attempt the snowy knife-edge ridge to the real summit that is 18m higher. The view from this particular summit is tremendous; from here you can see Cho Oyu, Everest and number of 7000m satellite peaks surrounding Shishapangma. Most climbers leave for the summit push at about 00:00 and reach the summit between 0700-0900 times. Almost 100% of the climbing route from camp 2 to the summit requires climbing on a fixed rope. 98% of climbers descend down to camp three from the central summit. However, for those climbers that choose to submit the real summit the greatest challenge for them is traverse in the knife-edge ridge between the two summits. If you are considering traversing the knife edge ridge we recommend that the forecast has 0% chance of wind, snow or low visibility. The ridge would be very risky in bad conditions.